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sabconsulting
- Posts: 269
- Joined: July 27th, 2015, 9:49 pm
- Location: High Wycombe
Post: # 10978Post
sabconsulting
January 10th, 2016, 7:41 pm
saDgit wrote:Steve, how have you connected the dc to dc charger in the camper to the truck? Have you done it through the 12S socket? Or have you fitted some other plug and socket elsewhere?
Yes, just the 12S socket. I ran thicker wire from the truck battery to the 12S socket. An Anderson connector with a shorter cable run would be better (rather than all the way to the back of the truck then all the way forward to the front of the camper.
I removed the battery relay on the truck 1) to remove a potential voltage drop and 2) to allow the DC to DC charger to charge the truck battery from solar when the camper battery is full. This is a feature of the CTEK charger.
Steve.
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saDgit
- Posts: 336
- Joined: August 24th, 2014, 12:17 pm
- Location: Aups, France (most of the time)
Post: # 10982Post
saDgit
January 10th, 2016, 9:22 pm
sabconsulting wrote:saDgit wrote:Steve, how have you connected the dc to dc charger in the camper to the truck? Have you done it through the 12S socket? Or have you fitted some other plug and socket elsewhere?
Yes, just the 12S socket. I ran thicker wire from the truck battery to the 12S socket. An Anderson connector with a shorter cable run would be better (rather than all the way to the back of the truck then all the way forward to the front of the camper.
I removed the battery relay on the truck 1) to remove a potential voltage drop and 2) to allow the DC to DC charger to charge the truck battery from solar when the camper battery is full. This is a feature of the CTEK charger.
Steve.
Very useful. Ta.
Martin
Previous demountables: Island Plastics 'Suntrekker' on P100, S.Karosser 'EC8L' on Ranger supercab, self-built pop-top on Ranger double cab
Current demountables: Rhino 'Safari' hardside on Ranger double cab
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Alexd
- Posts: 1097
- Joined: October 20th, 2015, 9:44 pm
- Location: home again home again!
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Post: # 11009Post
Alexd
January 13th, 2016, 12:14 pm
meaniing to ask what sort of gauge wire would be needed to 'just' run a fridge out of interest, i mean if someone wanted to power a fridge independently of sockets?
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Big Jim
- Posts: 301
- Joined: February 25th, 2015, 9:19 am
- Location: Wolverhampton
Post: # 11013Post
Big Jim
January 13th, 2016, 5:32 pm
It gets very complicated , doesn't it ?
To make things more simple I could install a second battery pretty close to my camper battery and hook them both up to a solar panel . Perhaps I may not get all the benefits but cable runs are small , nothing to plug in and unplug and all the batteries are always on the camper . I could fit a plastic battery box under the bonnet and fill it with the jack and some tools .
Does that make any sense ?
Jim
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Gary W
- Posts: 143
- Joined: March 19th, 2015, 8:01 pm
- Location: Portland, Dorset. UK
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Post: # 11026Post
Gary W
January 14th, 2016, 3:22 pm
Big Jim wrote:It gets very complicated , doesn't it ?
To make things more simple I could install a second battery pretty close to my camper battery and hook them both up to a solar panel . Perhaps I may not get all the benefits but cable runs are small , nothing to plug in and unplug and all the batteries are always on the camper . I could fit a plastic battery box under the bonnet and fill it with the jack and some tools .
Does that make any sense ?
Jim
Just because you have some space there doesn't mean you should fill it Jim

If you need another battery it makes a lot of sense to fit it there, although with a single good quality
deep cycle battery of around 120 a/h and a Battery to Battery charger (so your battery gets a full charge) you should get 3 or 4 days autonomy for normal camping (with a compressor fridge) which is enough for most anyway. If you need more it usually makes more sense to fit a solar panel before additional batteries.
Best wishes
Gary
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