Thanks Jim
Fridge
Fridge
Thanks to Que for helping me out with my fridge . It would not run off the truck . We discovered that the fuse holder had melted . I pulled the wires back to outside the control unit and connected a 10 amp fuse ( this is the size marked on the panel )and started the truck . It blew after a few seconds . I replaced it with a 15 amp fuse and all seems to work well . I have a thermometer with a wired probe and it brought it down by half a degree in about 10 mins . The fuse / connectors do get hot . Would it be ok to run it like this if I replace it with a decent fuse holder ?
Thanks Jim
Thanks Jim
Re: Fridge
I have used that a few times but I suppose we both know the answer don't we,
best get the proper thing before a fuse-nazi comes along
best get the proper thing before a fuse-nazi comes along
Re: Fridge
I suppose my question is , why will it not run on a 10 amp fuse ?
Re: Fridge
Hello Jim.
I have checked the manual for the spec of our fridge and the fuse is rated at 16 amps not 10 or 15. I seem to have been running it with a 15amp fuse myself and will now upgrade it to 16 just in case, I have probably got away with it due to the voltage drop on the long cable run. I have long been meaning to put some really decent cables from the truck battery to the camper as the fridge performance has never been great when running off of the truck supply (although it does work).
As for the crimps getting hot, you are using red ones by the looks of it which are rated at 12 amps, if they are of a good quality.
So will get hot when used at the limit of capacity. The blue crimps are rated at 16 amps and the yellows I think are 20 amps. So use the yellows if you can. You can always double or triple up the conductors to fill the larger crimp barrel. At the very least use the blue crimps, but they are still a bit close rated for the fridge load but much better than the reds.
Hope that helps.
I have checked the manual for the spec of our fridge and the fuse is rated at 16 amps not 10 or 15. I seem to have been running it with a 15amp fuse myself and will now upgrade it to 16 just in case, I have probably got away with it due to the voltage drop on the long cable run. I have long been meaning to put some really decent cables from the truck battery to the camper as the fridge performance has never been great when running off of the truck supply (although it does work).
As for the crimps getting hot, you are using red ones by the looks of it which are rated at 12 amps, if they are of a good quality.
So will get hot when used at the limit of capacity. The blue crimps are rated at 16 amps and the yellows I think are 20 amps. So use the yellows if you can. You can always double or triple up the conductors to fill the larger crimp barrel. At the very least use the blue crimps, but they are still a bit close rated for the fridge load but much better than the reds.
Hope that helps.
Nissan D40 KingCab
Apollo Demountable
Weston-Super-Mare
Apollo Demountable
Weston-Super-Mare
Re: Fridge
Hi Que
Thanks for the reply . The connectors / wires are the ones fitted by the manufacturer , the ones connected to the old fuse holder . They are red , mini blade . I have put some red heat shrink around them as they were not insulated . I will upgrade as you suggest .
Jim
Thanks for the reply . The connectors / wires are the ones fitted by the manufacturer , the ones connected to the old fuse holder . They are red , mini blade . I have put some red heat shrink around them as they were not insulated . I will upgrade as you suggest .
Jim
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sabconsulting
- Posts: 269
- Joined: July 27th, 2015, 9:49 pm
- Location: High Wycombe
Re: Fridge
Once you are no longer blowing fuses, you need to make sure you know where that 16 amps or so are coming from. You certainly don't want it coming from your camper battery.
So if it is coming from your truck alternator via a connection that only supplies power when the truck is running, and is not wired into your camper battery, you should be OK.
An example of where you could have a problem is if the same connection from the alternator to the fridge also goes to the camper battery then there is a chance of the voltage drop along the wire meaning that the fridge just drains your camper battery when driving, rather than running on the alternator. Or even if it doesn't drain your camper battery, you may be relying on the alternator to charge the camper battery while driving, which it probably won't be doing if it has a big load from that fridge on it.
I think it was leaving the absorption fridge on 12v while driving that killed my first camper battery.
A little digital fridge thermometer like the one you have there is an excellent addition - removes the temptation to open the fridge door to find out if it is working, and in the process let all the cold air out.
Steve.
So if it is coming from your truck alternator via a connection that only supplies power when the truck is running, and is not wired into your camper battery, you should be OK.
An example of where you could have a problem is if the same connection from the alternator to the fridge also goes to the camper battery then there is a chance of the voltage drop along the wire meaning that the fridge just drains your camper battery when driving, rather than running on the alternator. Or even if it doesn't drain your camper battery, you may be relying on the alternator to charge the camper battery while driving, which it probably won't be doing if it has a big load from that fridge on it.
I think it was leaving the absorption fridge on 12v while driving that killed my first camper battery.
A little digital fridge thermometer like the one you have there is an excellent addition - removes the temptation to open the fridge door to find out if it is working, and in the process let all the cold air out.
Steve.
