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Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 16th, 2016, 11:12 pm
by Big Jim
Thanks , and how thick is it ? If you get a chance would yow measure it please ?

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 17th, 2016, 1:07 pm
by zildjian
Just checked Skarosser and its welded loops of steel are based on 5"x 3" steel plate backed inside by same with three bolts at each.

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Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 17th, 2016, 3:21 pm
by Big Jim
That's interesting , my idea was to have the fixing point on the upright panel rather than the horizontal . Your plates are 15sq " which would be similar to my design ., but mine would go round the corner as well . It would be good to have a few more examples before I decide .
Thanks Jim

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 18th, 2016, 2:00 pm
by Big Jim
Image
Use full info ?

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 18th, 2016, 2:11 pm
by zildjian
None of personally, to my mind all of them should be slanting down & forwards a little

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 18th, 2016, 6:06 pm
by Gary W
It might be pointing out to any future readers of this post that when fitting mounting points on a timber framed camper you can't just put them where you feel like. Most of the body is just polystyrene between a layer of 3mm plywood inside and thin ply, alloy or GRP sheet outside. Polystyrene has zero structural value and virtually no compression resistance so you can't put a mount where there is no timber no matter how big the spreader plates. Various sizes of timber will have been used in the frame too depending upon the forces they need to handle, so you can't just assume that anywhere there's wood it'll be strong enough either.
The cabin manufacturer will have considered how to mount it to your truck when they built the thing so there will be suitably reinforced areas, or at least areas where they know there to be sufficient strength and compression resistance within the structure to do the job - it's crucial you stick to these areas.

Best wishes

Gary

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 18th, 2016, 7:56 pm
by Big Jim
Hi Gary
Thanks for the advice and it all makes perfect sense . I would not consider moving these points unless forced to . I suspect the there is some compromise from the manufacturers in trying to find a fixing point to cover all possibilities , which may not be the best for all cases, and almost by accident there will be better and stronger positions . My rear points are showing signs of weakening , perhaps through being over tightened in the past but also because of poor position . I have done a fair bit of investigation and planning and I am confident it will be a lot better . I do appreciate your words of warning and hope I don't hear " I told you so"
Best regards Jim

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 19th, 2016, 5:07 pm
by Big Jim
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Made the brackets for the lower fixing . There are a couple of threaded bumper mounts in the chassis , which are perfect . Mounts through the tub floor with a lifting eye . I have it from 3mm steel , a local fabricator guillotined it for me and let me use his bending press . The extra bit on the one is to fix my electric sockets as mine was dangling on a cable tie.
Still deliberating on the top ones .
I ran it by Niche yesterday and they didn't have a problem with moving the original mounts inwards , so that it straps down inside the tub rather than outside .

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 19th, 2016, 8:27 pm
by rubberrat
The longer you own a demountable, the bigger the plates get.
My rears are 330mm x 70mm. Fronts are 100mm square.

Re: Lashing points

Posted: January 19th, 2016, 8:36 pm
by Big Jim
I'm thinking the only way to be sure is to dig a concrete strip foundation and bolt the whole thing going to the ground !